I recently visited the SCMAGLEV and Railway Park in Nagoya. The dining car of the Tokaido
Shinkansen on display made me feel nostalgic about past railway trips, bringing back old
memories, such as the delicious beef stew, which I ate frequently for 10 years or so in those
dining cars after starting work in 1970. However, Japan also has a long tradition of bento
boxed lunches used on occasions such as trips, flower-viewing parties, and visits to the
theatre or sumo tournaments. Consequently, the Japanese bento has developed almost
into an art form unparalleled in most of the world. When railways spread their reach, dining
cars helped make the long train rides more enjoyable, as did ekiben (boxed lunches sold at
stations) that were easier and cheaper than menus in dining cars. Ekiben are still very popular
and always sell out at ekiben festivals in department stores featuring the various styles of
boxed lunches sold at stations across Japan. Originally, ekiben were sold on platforms to
passengers leaning out the windows while the train was stopped for a passing express, etc.,
but the appearance of limited expresses with permanently closed windows forced the boxed
lunch onboard, bringing it into direct competition with the dining car. Eventually, the boxed
lunch won out—in some ways the boxed lunch killed the dining car and now only a few remain
in service on top-class, long-distance night trains in Japan where many passengers are
seeking pleasure in the journey itself—rather like passengers on a cruise liner. However, since
even these top-class dining cars have too few seats for all the passengers at one time, many
people still bring a prepared luxury bento. Unfortunately, despite my nostalgic fondness for
beef stew in the dining cars of old, being realistic about the maintenance and running costs, it would be difficult to bring them back.
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