The first railway dining car in Japan made its appearance
on 25 May 1899 on the 307 Re train from Kyoto to Mitajiri
operated by San’yo Railway. Mitajiri Station was renamed
Hofu Station in 1962 and is now an elevated station. The
Kyoto-bound up train from Mitajiri was the 312 Re, and
one round trip ran each day. At that time, San’yo Railway
operations ran on the Government Railways’ Tokaido main
line from their own private lines as far as Kyoto Station.
This through operation of a private line on a Government
Railways’ line was also a first. Today, it seems perfectly
normal for companies to extend through services on each
other’s lines. San’yo Railway was also the first company to
operate sleeping cars. At that time, half of one carriage was
used as the dining car and the other half had passenger
seats. This design was called a composite carriage. The
half-carriage dining car and buffet remained in service in
an altered form for some years. Western-style meals were
served at a big centre table with five chairs along the right
and left sides. First- and second-class passengers sat at
the table to eat but third-class passengers could not use
the dining car. San’yo Railway also operated a composite
carriage consisting of a sleeping car and a dining car in
1900 between Mitajiri and Osaka. There were two coupled
sleeping/dining cars and instead of the large table found
in the first dining cars, there was a table for four, a table
for two and two tables for one. The cars were able to
serve 8 passengers and the so-called ‘train boy’ made
his appearance in sleeper trains at that time. His job was
to prepare the sleeping berths at night and to change the berths back to seats in the morning. The service was extended on 27 May 1901 from the previous terminus of
Mitajiri to Bakan Station, which was renamed Shimonoseki
in 1902 when the San’yo Railway dining car operated on four round trips each day. |
Express Trains, Interior Lighting |
San’yo Railway introduced Japan’s first dining cars, followed
up by sleeping cars and then express trains. Previously,
the norm was for trains to stop at every station but timesaving
express trains made their first appearance in the
revised timetable of October 1894 and ran between Kobe
and Hiroshima. Interior lighting appeared in November 1897.
Today, we take lit carriages for granted but in those days
a ‘lantern man’ would board the train at a
designated station and lower a lantern into
each carriage. The lanterns were collected
next morning at another designated station.
Subsequently, generators were used to
power carriage lighting, a role that was played later by batteries. |
Spread of Dining Cars |
Following the appearance of dining cars
on San’yo Railway in May 1899, many
people enquired about their availability on
Government Railways’ services. In those
days, an imported steam locomotive
hauled five carriages on the line between
Shimbashi and Kobe, but when a dining
car was coupled, the locomotive had
insufficient power to climb the grades at
Hakone Pass (Shizuoka Prefecture) and
Mt Osaka (Shiga Prefecture). The simplest solution would
have been to substitute the dining car for one carriage but the number of seats could not be reduced because large numbers of passengers were using the Tokaido main
line. The solution was to couple the dining car only on flat
sections between Shimbashi and Kozu, between Numazu
and Baba (today’s Zeze Station) and finally between Kyoto
and the terminus at Kobe Station. This service started with
two daily round trips on 15 December 1901; the down train
departed Shimbashi at 06:20 and arrived in Kobe at 22:47,
while the up train left Kobe at 06:00 and arrived in Shimbashi
at 20:30. The trains departing in the evening operated as
night trains. As on San’yo Railway, the dining car was a
composite carriage, half of which was second-class seats.
However, the fact that it was uncoupled en route must have
made dining passengers feel very uneasy. In the revised
timetable of 20 January 1903, a dining car was coupled
throughout the entire journey. I do not know whether a more
powerful locomotive had arrived or whether an auxiliary
locomotive was used, but the other two trains also cut the
sections operating without a dining car. Subsequently, dining
cars were connected to third-class trains as well as first and
second class. Third-class express trains started operation
in the revised timetable of April 1906. Unlike earlier dining
cars serving Western-style meals, dining cars on the third-class
express trains served Japanese food. This was the first
time that Japanese-style dining cars appeared. Instead of a
Western dining table, long tables were placed alongside the
windows with a row of fixed stools, and passengers ate while
facing the window. The time for eating a meal was limited to
20 minutes. Dining cars occupying a whole carriage instead
of being part of a composite carriage appeared in 1906. |
Female Dining Car Crew |
Initially, dining cars were for high-class passengers but they
gradually became more popularized. By March 1907, 24
trains were operating with dining cars: 14 between Shimbashi
and Shimonoseki, four between Ueno and Aomori, and six on Kyushu. As dining cars increased, so did the number of passengers using them. It would seem that conscription was
also a factor because transport of drafted conscripts meant
more train journeys. Apparently people who did not usually
have much chance to travel by train wanted to take this
opportunity to eat in a dining car. Waitresses first appeared
in 1930. The first dining car staff were solely men, as was
in the West, but wartime conscription caused shortages of
men and women replaced them. In 1930, Toyoken employed
waitresses on non-scheduled express trains between Tokyo
and Osaka with the special approval of the Railway Ministry.
The reaction from passengers was favourable and the
number of waitresses employed by the railway operators increased subsequently. |
Abolition of Dining Car |
The six companies who had been operating dining cars
merged on 15 September 1938 to form Nippon Shokudo
and the dining cars operating separately on the various lines
were amalgamated. In January 1938, there were 72 dining
cars, 62 on scheduled services and 12 on non-scheduled
services. This was the prewar high point. Apparently, there
were various suggestions for the new company name but
Nippon Shokudo Co., Ltd. was finalized because, in addition
to dining cars, the company intended to run diners and bento boxed lunch kiosks inside stations in the future. As
the war spread, the dining cars started to suffer a shortage
of both ingredients and coal for stoves. They were able
to supplement ingredients with other substitutes but then
military demand meant that they had to hand
over even their pots, pans, knives and forks.
On 24 December 1940, dining cars and
sleeping cars were removed from all trains
throughout Japan. Carriages with seating,
which could accommodate more passengers than dining and sleeping cars, were coupled instead. Dining cars, sleeping cars and
first-class carriages were abolished in the
timetable revision of 1 April 1944. The war
rationing meant that food was supplied under
government order. Railway bread (rolls made
from wheat flour mixed with ingredients such
as dried vegetables, mulberry leaves, fish
meal, orange peel and persimmon leaves)
and boxed lunches of rice mixed with other
ingredients were sold at Tokyo, Ueno and
other stations. Finally, the war ended on 15 August 1945. |
Occupation Forces’ Dining Cars |
The 8-year Pacific War had ended with the Government
Railways’ stations and rolling stock in ruins. During this
difficult time, an officer from the Allied forces came to
Nippon Shokudo with four requests. The first was to run a
dining car on the special tour train leaving Tokyo for Tohoku
and Hokkaido on 2 October 1945. The other three requests
were: to couple dining cars to trains used by soldiers and
their families; to couple dining cars to military trains used to
transport troops; and to prepare food for trains reserved for
officers. It seems that directives from the Allied forces were
given top priority in the early postwar period. In 1946, the
‘Yankee Limited’ ran between Ueno and Aomori, and was
later extended as far as Sapporo. To the west, the ‘Dixie
Limited’ operated between Tokyo, Hakata and Sasebo.
At that time Japan, was suffering severe food shortages
and apparently it was impossible to cater for dining cars.
However, the Allied forces supplied the foodstuffs so the
cooks working on the white-striped trains reserved for Allied
troops never lacked for meat, seafood, and tinned food.
Apparently, they cooked on oil stoves rather than coal.
Flames apparently sometimes burst out of holes in the fuel pipes. I have heard that, since oil produces a strong heat, food such as steak cooked very well. People working on
these trains received food that was not generally available in Japan when they finished their shift. |
Revival of Dining Car—15 September 1949 |
After a 5-year gap, the dining car made its return on the Heiwa, the first postwar limited express, operating between
Tokyo and Osaka. At that time, a dining car was also coupled
to the Kagoshima-bound express later named Kirishima.
The Heiwa used the Sushi 48 prewar dining car while the Kirishima dining car was remodelled from a standard Oha 35 carriage. Only passengers with gaishokuken ration
coupons could use the dining car. The good old Tsubame and Hato limited expresses were revived in 1950 and in
1953 the Kamome limited express started operating on the
down San’yo main line to Kyushu. These trains included a
dining car, and the female attendants known as Tsubame,
Hato or Kamome girls were very popular with passengers.
The Asakaze overnight limited express linking Kyushu and
Tokyo made its appearance in 1956. The dining car on the Asakaze was an Oshi 17 with coal-fired stoves. It was used
until May 1963 on the Mizuho limited express linking Tokyo
and Kyushu, and then subsequently as a limited express dining car until 1972. |
Photo: Dining car on Government Railways in 1905 (MTM)
Photo: Nippon Shokudo old headquarters building (Author)
Photo: Dining car crew uniform in 1938 (MTM)
Photo: Oshi 17 dining car (Author)
Photo: Announcement about restart of dining car services (Author)
Photo: Refrigerator of Nashi 20 dining car (Author)
Photo: Seasons Menu in 1963 (Author)
Photo: Electric stove of Nashi 20 dining car (Author)
Photo: Recruit pamphlet (Author)
Photo: Limited express Hakucho and author at Mukomachi yard in 1972 (Author)
Photo: Hikari A Set (beef stew a la mode) (Author)
Photo: Hikari B Set (pork cutlet Bernese style) (Author)
Photo: Hikari C Set (Chinese vegetables) (Author)
Photo: Yoshoku Set (Series 100) (Author)
Photo: Genkai-Gozen (Series 0) (Author)
Photo: Genkai-Gozen (Series 100) (Author)
|
Age of Electric Stoves |
With the timetable revision of 10 October 1958, the Asakaze,
which had operated as an old-style passenger train, became
a deluxe Series 20 fixed-composition train. It had a power
car generating electricity for cooling, heating and lighting
throughout the train as well as for the electric ovens, stoves,
grills and hotplates in the dining car. It was an overnight
sleeper express, and another limited express came on the
scene 1 month after the revision. On 1 November, after a
series of trials, the Series 151 Kodama limited business
express (Series 20 at that time) covered the distance
between Tokyo and Osaka in 6 hours and 50 minutes. The
trainset included a Mohashi 21 half-coach buffet car. In 1960,
the Tsubame and Hato passenger trains were replaced by
Series 151 electric limited expresses, including a Sashi 151
dining car and Mohashi 150 (half-coach) buffet car; a first-class
saloon car and telephone service were also available.
More limited expresses came on the scene and in 1960 the Hatsukari diesel limited express started service between
Ueno and Aomori. It included a Kisashi 80 dining car and
used diesel-generated electricity to power equipment such
as refrigerators and electric stoves. 1961 marked the birth of
the Series 82 diesel limited express, an improved version of
the Hatsukari. The revised timetable launched the spread of
smoke-free travel on major railway lines throughout Japan,
making it possible to enjoy dining car services on Japan’s
major lines. There were no dining cars on diesel trains, local
expresses or expresses, but many passenger expresses
included a dining car. There was also the Oshi 16 dining car (buffet type) that used electric stoves instead of coal stoves.
Many electric expresses and local expresses operated
as daytime expresses, and many half-coach buffet cars
appeared. These buffet cars had a corner for udon and soba noodles, or for sushi, and were popularly known as ‘soba trains’ or ‘sushi trains’. |
Shinkansen Starts |
Shinkansen services with dining cars started between Tokyo
and Shin-Osaka in 1964, the year of the Tokyo Olympics,
using two half-coach Type 35 buffets. They were located in
Car 9 and Car 5 and were referred to as Car A and Car B
within the company. In 1972, shinkansen services expanded
westward as far as Okayama. At Okayama, the Series 485
daytime limited express, the Series 583 Midori, the Series
475 Tsubame and Hato expresses, the Genkai, and the
Tsukushi and Beppu from Shin-Osaka, connected with the
shinkansen. Many limited expresses and expresses, such
as the Tsubame, Hato and Midori, were in operation and
most included a buffet or dining car. Tokyo night trains with
a Series 20 dining car included the Asakaze and Hayabusa,
and dining cars also operated on such night trains as the
Series 538 sleeper limited express Kinsei from Nagoya, the Kirishima from Kyoto and the Series 20 Akatsuki from Shin-
Osaka. Apparently dining cars were most common until
shinkansen services to Hakata were started. There were
many dining cars operating on limited expresses in the
Hokuriku area, including the Aomori-bound Hakucho as
well as the Raicho and the Hokuetsu. Recently, dining cars
are also flourishing on Series 485 electric limited expresses
on the Shin’etsu Line and the Series 489 electric limited expresses operating on the Tohoku and Joban lines. |
10 March 1975 |
The shinkansen spread westward and services to Hakata
Station finally started. This was when shinkansen dining cars
appeared in Kyushu. The Type 36 dining car occupied the
whole carriage and differed from dining cars on conventional
trains because it had a separate corridor rather than a
central aisle. As a result, dining car operations changed
dramatically; the dining car was Car 8 and the buffet was in
Car 9 where there was a telephone booth and a telephone
attendant took messages or called passengers to the
phone. In 1985, the Series 100 X trainset with a double-decker
dining car came onto the scene. Before long, the
heyday of the Tokaido and San’yo shinkansen dining car had
arrived. Most trains ran a buffet or diner, but their numbers
decreased gradually after the advent of the Series 300 Nozomi, because it increased speeds and shortened travel
times so much that there was no longer sufficient time for
a full meal. In 2000, the dining car conceded defeat to the Series 500 and 700 Nozomi and became extinct. |
Personal Recollections
Lighting coal stove—the first task |
I joined the crew of a dining car in 1969 at age 19 because
I loved express trains and was fascinated by the steam
locomotives (SL) that hauled them. My first job was aboard
the Unzen express connecting Nagasaki and Kyoto. I lived
in Nishijin in Fukuoka and would board the SL-hauled
commuter train, which ran once a day, and started work
at 08:00. I would stop by the office to wish the staff good
morning and then change into my cook’s uniform before
checking the sharpness of personal cooking knives and
entering the kitchens. This was where we prepared food such
as curry sauce and demi-glace sauce to load on the train.
We also checked the ingredients to be loaded. My job was
to check the ingredients and to chop wood! The ingredients included condiments such as soy sauce and pepper,
salad vegetables, boiled vegetables, pasta, beef, pork and
chicken. There were many other things to check as well,
such as disposable chopsticks and napkins, tablecloths,
and linen, and the various crew members responsible
checked them before we boarded. It was also part of my job
to wash the vegetables and rice. In those days, there were
two kinds of express train: EMU expresses, and locomotive-hauled
expresses, which used coal stoves. The dining car
prepared all food using coal-generated heat, so we had to
prepare kindling for the coal stoves. Once that was done, we
sorted the vegetables and prepared them so that it would
be possible to cook them as soon as we had boarded the
train. There was a roll-call after the crew had all finished the
checks. When our train arrived we quickly changed with
the previous crew. Passengers were also getting on or off
the train and the platform was always bustling with people.
Water was also stored under the carriage before the train set
off again after a brief stop. The general rule was not to create
black smoke in a station and I lit the coal so it would be fully
ablaze before we arrived at a major station. This kindling was my first task. |
Coal-stove kitchen |
After 1 year working aboard the trains, I finally got a good
grasp of it all. It was 3 hours to Nagasaki from Hakata, where
I boarded. When we arrived at the terminus, the train was
shunted onto the inspection track, where the rolling stock
was checked. After the check was complete, the train was
shunted into the cleaning track where the coal stoves were
cleaned and the chimneys on the roof swept. Fresh ice for
the dining car’s refrigerator was loaded. After cleaning,
the maintenance crew left and the dining car crew began
preparations. I kindled the firewood I had chopped at Hakata using newspapers, magazines, etc., left in the train. Once it had caught, I added charcoal and then when the charcoal
was ablaze, gradually added coal. While the stove was
heating, I washed the vegetables and rice at the cleaning
track. The person in charge of the tables got in more drinking
water and checked the water. I started preparing food in
earnest once the stove finally got hot. I also boiled kettles
of water while the coal was building up heat. As soon as we
had hot water, I boiled the rice. Before leaving Nagasaki, I
cooked two pots of rice, enough for 30 people. After boiling
the rice for about 20 minutes, I transferred the pot to a
hotplate next to the stove and then started to heat four kinds
of sauce. Once the soup, curry and demi-glace sauce were
heated, I cooked the carrots, potatoes, runner beans and
other vegetables to go with the meat. Vegetables, cheese,
ham and bread for the sandwiches were sliced in the pantry.
The coffee sold onboard was made in the kitchen. Around
the time that the coffee and sandwiches for the trolley were
ready, the replacement SL came onto the cleaning track.
That was the happiest moment for me. The SL crew often
gave us some of their coal. When all the preparations were
finished and the crew had finished their meal, the SL would haul us off to the Nagasaki platform. |
Unzen Overnight Express |
Many people came onto the platform at Nagasaki to see
passengers off. Some had come by boat from places like
Goto. As departure time approached, Nagasaki geisha would sometimes stand in front of the Green Car seeing
passengers off. The platform and coaches were bustling, but
in the dining car kitchen we were getting ready for business.
The dining car had a crew of three: the chef in charge of
cooking, the assistant cook ‘Suke San’ and the waitress ‘Pan
Chan’. Nine crew members were responsible for looking
after the passengers: the Grade One cashier in charge of the cash register, the Grade Two staff in charge of the bills, the Grade Three staff in charge of linen, the staff in charge
of drinks, looking after the customers and onboard sales.
One passenger conductor, one operation conductor, four
passenger attendants, one ‘grease monkey’, the engine driver
and the fireman also worked the train. After the departure bell
rang, the locomotive blew her whistle and we would line up
facing the platform and exchange bows with the stationmaster
and attendants. The train then departed Nagasaki Station
bound for Urakami. When there was a festival like the summer
Spirit Boat Procession or Okunchi we would see many people
getting on and off the train in the town. Then it was time to
‘open shop’. After the conductor finished announcing the
stops and making other onboard announcements, the cashier
made our business announcement, ‘This is an announcement
from Nippon Shokudo. Dinner is now available in the dining
car. Our onboard sales also offer… .’ This would bring
customers flocking to the dining car. Set menus included a
steak dinner, lunches A and B, as well as a la carte dishes
such as spaghetti, curry and rice, and sandwiches. The
Japanese dishes included makunouchi bento boxed lunches,
and unagi braised eel on rice. When an order came in, the
cook would take the ingredients from the refrigerator and
prepare them on the chopping board. Of course fire was
used in the cooking. A little more coal was thrown on to raise
the heat. A ring to regulate the heat, known as a ‘sha-no-me’
was put on the stove and the oil heated. Thus we started
business. There were lots of orders for beer and sake rice
wine from the tables. We soon left Nagasaki behind and
headed towards the mountain pass. We came out of the
tunnel, passed through orange orchards and came to Omura
Bay. The number of customers steadily increased. Dishes like
fried prawns and hamburgers were selling; it became a bit of
a meeting place. Behind the dining car were the Green Car,
Sleeper A and reserved seats. In front, were the four Sleeper
B cars, and four carriages with unreserved seats. Apparently a lot of the customers at the front of the train bought boxed lunches. The two onboard sales attendants went back and
forth as far as Car 12 carrying baskets. They were carrying
items like oranges, boiled eggs, juice and coffee. The
corridor along the way had manually-operated doors which
remained open unless someone closed them. That would be unthinkable today, wouldn’t it? Of course the windows and
staff door into the dining car were manually operated. The
kitchen had no air conditioning and since we were right in
front of the stove, there was nothing we could do about the
summer heat. In winter, the kitchen stayed cold until the stove
heated up. Hot water to wash the dishes also depended on
the stove. Sometimes, we would ask the SL footplate to let
us use their heating when we did not have enough hot water
(in winter). Water was precious because we could not get a
fresh supply while the train was running. We could only stock
up when the locomotive was changed or at major stations.
We would fill the upper and the lower water tanks to the brim,
and there was a system to pump water up into the upper tank using an air pump. And thus we continued business. |
Ordering underway |
The dining car only carried a limited amount of raw materials
and we couldn’t get extra during the journey. We would run
short if the train was delayed or if we had a large number
of customers. The only station from where we could place
an order was Tosu. From here, there wasn’t enough time
to ready the ingredients. Consequently, we would ask for
help from stations en route. We would write down what we
needed for the journey on up from Hakata, wrap the note
around a carrot or potato or something, and throw it towards
the platform attendant at a station as we passed through
without stopping. If all went well, the staff at that station
would contact our office to let them know. I think they must
have found it an amusing sight at the station, reading notes like ‘2 kilos of cabbages’ or ‘curry for 20 people’. When we eventually arrived at Tosu Station we would confirm that the
station had passed on the message. That was how the dining
car was able to operate successfully. When we arrived at
Hakata, we would get the items we had ordered, as well as
the ingredients for the next morning’s breakfast. After that,
we would take on fresh supplies of water at Moji Station and Hiroshima Station, and then prepare breakfast. |
Closing time |
We stopped serving at 23:00; customers who had enjoyed
a drink would leave the dining car at around 23:30.
Then we would clear the tables and start to prepare
dinner for the crew, preparing a meal for the
conductors and passenger attendants first.
It would be around midnight when we made dinner for the dining car crew.
We would eat dinner together while asking the conductor about
how many passengers would get off at which station in
the morning. We could take a quick nap after dinner. It
was gone 01:00 when we had finished tidying up.
The female passenger attendants had done the washing
And hung it out to dry in the kitchen. After the conductor
and other staff had left, we prepared the beds for the dining
car crew. We arranged groups of six chairs between the
tables to make beds, where our legs would be under
the tables. Two people shared a group of six chairs. There
were no partitions and we all slept together companionably. We were able to get to sleep at around 01:30. |
Preparing breakfast |
It was past 03:30 when we arrived in Hiroshima. There was a
supply of fresh water for the dining car and the engine driver
handed over to his relief here. After leaving Hiroshima, there
is a long grade between Seno and Hachihonmatsu known as ‘the Hakone of the West’. We started preparing breakfasts during this stretch as the train’s speed dropped. It was really
tough on rainy days, especially when the coal stove wouldn’t
light. Just as it had started to smoulder, we would arrive at
Seno Station where the EF59 locomotive was coupled to push
us up the final stretch. The kitchen was in turmoil and it was
always filled with smoke. I would open the window to let it
out on the Seno Station platform where we were stopped
and the engine driver for the Seno section and station staff
always (and annoyingly) joked about me transforming myself
into a puff of smoke again! After we left the station, the fire
would catch and the stove heated up. Just before the train
reached Hachihonmatsu Station the auxiliary locomotive was
uncoupled whilst we were still moving and the lightened train
was now heading downhill towards Saijo. In the kitchen, we
boiled coffee, made sandwiches for the onboard sales, boiled
rice, and made miso soup. The soup was in small milk urns as
the narrow opening helped to prevent spills. I added more coal
to increase the heat and added seaweed to the soup urns.
After that I added urume (small dried fish). This was to make
the ‘primary stock’ for the clear soup and ‘secondary stock’
for the miso soup. I arranged the trays of Japanese dishes in
the pantry around the time that the rice had finished cooking.
The main dish was a salmon slice. I had grilled 60 portions
in the oven. Next to it was dashimaki rolled omelette; to the
right of the kamaboko fish cake I arranged pickled cabbage,
cucumber and narazuke (vegetables pickled in sake lees).
The finishing touch was to add vinegared turnip. We also
served a Western-style breakfast. I cut the boneless ham and
prepared the eggs. The Western-style breakfast was ham and
eggs, orange or tomato juice, and a choice of coffee or tea.
It came with toast. After we left Okayama, the dining car was
packed until past Akashi. After 40 Japanese-style breakfasts
had been sold, we prepared extra ones as we worked. We
finished clearing the tables and washing up around the time
we arrived in Kobe where we picked up the ice and coal we had ordered. The staff in charge of cooking and accounts
prepared our order for Osaka; it was for ingredients for the return journey and for extra consumable items. |
Clearing Up |
After leaving Osaka, we would get a few customers for drinks
such as tea or coffee, and we would close the dining car
at Takatsuki. We would clean the frying pans, saucepans,
carriers and silverware. I would burnish the frying pans with
a pumice stone until their outsides were sparkling. There
were 12 or 13 pots and pans, including a stir-frying pan, a
deep-frying pan and a frying pan just for ham and eggs.
The staff in charge of the tables cleaned the silverware.
They polished the egg-stained knives and forks with silver
polish, washed them with detergent, then rinsed them in
boiled water and dried them with a drying cloth. The kitchen
staff prepared for the return journey. With the train still on
the move, I sharpened the cooking knives I had used on the
up journey. Once I had finished, I prepared ingredients and
made something for the crew. The train arrived at Kyoto, our
final destination. The female crew got off and went to the
Kyoto Office to hand over our takings and take a rest. We
would meet up again that night at the Yasu depot. The train
was sent on from Kyoto to the depot and we had our meal on
the way there. It passed alongside Lake Biwa for 40 minutes
as we ate our meal before arriving at the Yasu depot where
we took a bath, tidied up the dining car and rested. After the
16:30 train inspection had finished, we started preparing food again as the next work cycle started. |
Working limited express |
My first day working on the Hayabusa was 28 December
1969; I clocked in, prepared the ingredients, ran checks
and then it was time for the roll-call. That day I had been sent from the Hakata Office to help out at the Moji Office. We were often required to provide extra help during the Oshogatsu year end or Obon summer holidays. At that time,
the Hakata Office was in charge of express train dining cars
but during the year-end period they replaced the dining car
with an ordinary carriage. Crews were dispatched to help
out at the Kagoshima, Yonago and Moji offices. At Yonago,
they worked on the Izumo or Matsukaze, while in Kagoshima
they worked on trains like the Nichirin and Ariake. I asked to
be seconded to the Moji Office because it was my dream
to work on the Sakura, Asakaze, Fuji, Hayabusa, Suisei and Asatsuki Blue Trains (sleeper limited expresses). It was my
first time to ride in a Series 20 dining car, and I remember
how excited I was. After the roll-call I followed my senior
colleague from the Moji platform and through the Kanmon
Tunnel as we went to take over at Shimonoseki. Before long,
the down-bound Hayabusa arrived, pulled by an EF65 (a DC
electric locomotive). I had a camera in my workbag but, of
course, this was neither the time nor place to take a picture.
The dining car finally stopped right in front of us and we
soon set off again. In the Kanmon Tunnel, we checked the
ingredients with the crew who had come down from Tokyo
and did the handover. There were some ingredients left but
after the locomotive had passed through the neutral section
(AC/DC) and pulled up at Moji Station platform, we swiftly
loaded the ingredients for the round trip to Kagoshima. The
corridor near the staff door was piled with provisions and
the chef in charge told me to stow them away quickly. The
locomotive had already switched from an EF30 (for use
in the Kanmon Tunnel) to an ED72 (locomotive for use in
Kyushu) and, before I had time to tidy up, we had set off and
were passing alongside the Moji depot. I wanted to take a
look but had no time to spare. When I looked up I caught a
glimpse of a D51 (steam locomotive for freight trains). Even
as we moved out, the last orders for breakfast came in. The
train passed through Kokura Station without stopping. Our
next stop would be Hakata Station. I finished stowing away the ingredients around the time we passed through Orio Station and was able to return to the kitchen. Mountains of dirty
breakfast dishes and utensils arrived. This was far, far busier
than on an express, and I took a short breather after I’d done
about half of it. The onboard announcement was saying
that we were arriving at Hakata Station. People from
the Hakata Office, my own workplace, came
to help us. They asked if I was doing OK but I
had no time to answer them. I had no chance
to look at the locomotives in the Yoshizuka
or Kashii depots either. The train set off from
Hakata Station and we started to prepare lunch.
From here to Kumamoto was a busy time.
Even so, I caught a glimpse of the C55 steam locomotive at Haruda. I knew the pace for an express train and would be
able to take a look outside accordingly, but I couldn’t do that
on a limited express. I had friends in the limited express crew
that I’d met at Mukomachi or Nagasaki, but working together
was of course a different matter. At Tosu we split away from
the Nagasaki-bound section. I did get a quick look at Tosu
Depot while washing the dishes. I wasn’t slacking. My hands
kept moving. I felt a sense of relief at seeing the locomotives
even though we were this busy. I had visited the Tosu Depot
many times as a boy and had often seen the train I was
riding on now—the Hayabusa—there but the depot looked
different when seen from the train. After we had left Kurume,
the next stop was Omuta. As the 600 Series EMU on the
Nishitetsu Omuta Line approached us from the right, we
stopped at Omuta Station. Many coal wagons were lined up
in the station. We soon left and I gradually got the kitchen
tidied up. At last I could hear something other than orders
from the customers. ‘Is everything OK?’ It was my senior
colleague speaking. By now the train was running through
Tabaruzaka. The onboard announcements about connecting
trains at Kumamoto began. In the kitchen, Suke San (the
assistant cook) started getting ready to leave at Kumamoto, because there would only be a kitchen crew of three between Kumamoto and Nishi-Kagoshima. Suke San made his
farewells and got off. He would be working his way back on
the up-bound Hayabusa. The locomotive was changed from
an electric ED72 to a diesel DD51. Electrification as far as
Kumamoto was completed on 1 October 1965, but from here
onwards we would see many steam locomotives such as the
C60, C57 and the C61 which used to haul the Hayabusa.
I could see the Kumamoto Depot on the corridor side of
the kitchen. Next was Yatsushiro. Once we had got this far
things had calmed down and the dining car only held people
enjoying an afternoon tea. After we had passed Ijuin, I could
see the Sakurajima volcano in front of us and we arrived
at our terminus of Nishi-Kagoshima Station on schedule at
15:59. The train was hauled by a steam locomotive to the
Kagoshima Depot where we handed over to the crew for
the up-bound Akatsuki. After we had said our farewells and
finished roll-call at the Kagoshima Office, I was off-duty until the next morning.
After breakfast at 09:30 at the office next day, there
was roll-call and then I headed to the cleaning track at
the depot, boarded the train and started getting ready for
business. It was 29 December and the Fuji crew made an
early departure. The No. 8 Fuji, departed at 09:15 and the
No. 6 Hayabusa departed from Nishi-Kagoshima at 12:08,
bidding farewell to Sakurajima. The train ran up the coast
track, picking up speed on the flat stretch after Yatsushiro.
When we arrived at Kumamoto, an electric locomotive took
over for the remaining stretch. We arrived at Tosu Station
at 17:01 and stopped for 14 minutes to be coupled with
the Hayabusa from Nagasaki. From here on, the dining car
was packed. It stayed open as far as Hiroshima, closing at
23:00 when we were near Itozaki. After the customers had
left, we made dinner for the conductor and crew, and could
finally take a break after clearing up. The train was leaving
Okayama. There was time for a nap but we started getting ready for business when we had passed Sekigahara and
were approaching Nagoya. The dining car opened at 06:00
as we served up breakfast, and passed Lake Hamana, Mt
Fuji and the Atami coastline heading for Tokyo where we
arrived on schedule at 10:10. The passengers departed and
the train became quiet. The power was turned off and we
headed towards Shinagawa as a deadhead train. We arrived
after about 10 minutes. The dining car crew left the train here
and went through the underpass to the Shinagawa Office
for the arrival roll-call. After that, we went to the kitchens for
additional supplies for the down train and put in an order for
ingredients such as meat and vegetables. In addition to the
standard provisions, we loaded up on decorations and rice
cakes to use in zoni soup since it would be New Year when
we arrived in Kyushu. Once we had finished checking the
ordered items we were off work until the following morning.
The Shinagawa Office had sleeping accommodation,
a canteen, a kiosk and a barber’s shop in addition to its
offices, and there were many crew members there from
every area. It was bustling with people from the Nagoya,
Osaka, Moji, Hiroshima and Yonago offices.
Next morning, I headed to the cleaning track to take
over the work for the down-bound Hayabusa. It was 31
December 1969, New Year’s Eve. I carried the ingredients
we had ordered the day before through the underpass to the
cleaning track. Things that could be washed outside would
be dealt with here. Once the train had been washed and its
interior cleaned, it was towed to the departure track. I could
see the Asakaze, Sakura and Fuji alongside. The Hayabusa
left just after 17:30 and headed towards Tokyo Station. The
train was provisionally towed to the Kanda side where we
waited until it was time to enter the station track. Before too
long we were on the track leading to Tokyo Station where
many passengers were waiting. The platform was crowded
with people going back to their hometowns and well-wishers seeing them off. The next day was New Year. There were
only 6 more hours left of 1969. I could hear the dialect of
my Kyushu home. All the seats on the train were taken, and
the dining car entrance and smoking room were packed.
At 18:00, with a long whistle blast, the train set off from
Tokyo Station. Once the platform and dining car crew had
finished our salutations we opened shop. The dining car
was soon full and orders came swiftly into the kitchen. Steak,
set menu, makunouchi, eel, cheese, ham salad…. Orders
flooded in for meals as well as snacks to go with drinks. We
passed Yurakucho and then Shimbashi, and the train picked
up speed after passing Shinagawa Station. The kitchen
was frantically busy. We were serving mainly meals after
our departure but the focus shifted gradually to drinks. The
atmosphere in the dining car was relaxed, with passengers
reminiscing about their hometowns. We passed through
Atami en route to Shizuoka, our next stop. We arrived in
Nagoya at 22:49 and departed at 22:54. Newspapers were
unloaded onto the platform. When the departure bell rang,
passengers from Nagoya boarded the train. There were
many people on the platform to see them off. After leaving
Nagoya, it wasn’t long until closing time. Suddenly the train
was running through snow. Once the dining car was closed
and the crew’s dinner had been made, the chefs prepared
ingredients at the tables while the cashier tallied our takings
The other waiters and I tidied up the kitchen. One of the
older workers had placed a radio next to the window from
which we could hear snatches from the Kohaku Uta Gassen New Year’s Eve song contest. The year was nearly over. The
train was speeding through Sekigahara, where the snow lay
more deeply. I opened the kitchen window and looked out
at the locomotive hauling the long line of carriages towards
Kyushu through the bright snow. Before long it was past
midnight and the New Year had arrived. We wished the
conductors and other people passing through the dining
car ‘Happy New Year’. The train was nearly at Maibara. From there we could nap until Itozaki. The next morning, I started
preparing the breakfasts whilst looking at the Itozaki Depot.
It was the morning of New Year’s Day 1970. In the kitchen,
we were preparing New Year’s zoni soup while roasting rice
cakes in the oven. We had prepared otoso (spiced sake to
celebrate the New Year) on the tables as we readied to greet
the New Year’s customers. The train passed through Saijo
Station and we had just passed Hachihonmatsu when the
conductor’s announcement came over the speakers. The
chime sounded and then ‘We wish you all a Happy New Year.
The time is now 05:40. Today is 1 January 1970. The train is
running on schedule. We will soon arrive in Hiroshima. Our
arrival time is 06:00. Please change here for the Geibi, Ujina
and Kure lines.’ The announcements continued as we pulled
into Hiroshima. The dining car opened from Hiroshima, and
our morning announcement was made. ‘We wish you all a
Happy New Year. The dining car is now open for breakfast.
Both Western- and Japanese-style meals are available. The
dining car is Car 5, in the middle of the train. Boxed lunches
and green tea, sandwiches and coffee, newspapers and
magazines are also available from our onboard sales staff
who will make their way through the train. We hope that you
will make use of our services.’ The onboard sales staff set
off after this announcement. The train passed Miyajima and
sped along the coastline from Iwakuni. The morning sun
rose over the Seto Inland Sea. We passed through Kojiro,
Obatake, Yanaiminato and Tokuyama, and arrived at Ogori
Station. I could see a steam locomotive in the depot. We
would start preparing for the handover when we left this
station. By the time we had finished clearing up we were
nearly at Shimonoseki, where the handover would take place.
This time we were handing over to the new crew. We quickly
completed the handover while passing through the Kanmon
Tunnel and our work came to an end at Moji Station. With the
completion of the arrival roll-call, report and handover of leftover ingredients, my 4-night 5-day shift had come to an end. |
Dining car tricks |
Various tricks of the trade are used in dining car kitchens.
For example, the deep-frying pan curls inwards at the top so
that the swaying of the train doesn’t spill the oil. It won’t spill
over unless the train makes an emergency stop. Also, the
rice saucepans and pots to make the stock for miso soup and
clear soups are narrower at the top so that the stock doesn’t
spill. The crockery shelves have a rail at the front to stop the
tableware from sliding out. If something unexpected happens and the train makes an emergency stop, it causes chaos.
When it’s really bad, oil spills over and catches fire. A
fire extinguisher is best in such cases, but the dining cars
had sand onboard. We used to throw bags of sand to put
out the flames when a lot of oil spilled and caught fire. There
were a lot of clever contrivances on board the train, as well
as know-how taught to us by our older colleagues. We used
to place a large plate in the pasta saucepan until the water boiled to stop it spilling out.
The kitchens were small so you could do everything from
getting out the ingredients to preparing them without having to
move too much. The dining car was really built for efficiency.
|
Before work in dining car |
Before and after my work in the dining car I would learn
basic cooking techniques in the preparation area in our
offices. There was a pantry for fresh vegetables and a
place to sort different ingredients, and the refrigerators for
each of the trains were lined up in a row. At the back of
the room were refrigerators, freezers, and a cooling room,
where cooked ingredients could be cooled, next to which
were food cutters, slicers and mixers. Finally, there were
many utensils, such as steamers and rotisseries, lined up in
front of the stoves. The meat was prepared on a large work
surface. Quartered cow carcasses were cut up for use in
different dishes. Chickens were quartered and processed. The onboard crew’s work was to prepare food that had already been processed to some extent. There was a limit
to what could be done onboard a train. After I’d finished
work in the dining car, I would often practise tossing food in
a frying pan. I would add matchsticks to uncooked rice and
practise tossing them. When I’d got a bit ahead with tasks
that could be done onboard, such as sharpening knives
and cutting bread, before boarding the train for work I would
often learn basic techniques such as how to make curry
roux or white sauce, thicken mayonnaise, clean meat and
mix hamburgers. I would cut up the carrots to be served
warm along with the meat and then peel them with a small
vegetable knife. Then I would boil them and caramelize
them with butter and sugar. That would be one dish done.
In the same way I would peel the potatoes for frying but
they would be loaded on the train after simply being boiled.
These basics could only be learned in our station premises.
In addition to the preparation room on the second floor, there
was a hall for parties and banquets on the third floor. There
I could learn how to make Western-style full-course meals
and hors d’oeuvres. I learned through practical experience
at our station premises how to do the various tasks involved in dining car work.
Although it seems like only yesterday, in fact that was all
quite a long time ago. Now my job is to preserve the trains
for which I have such fond memories and to which I owe a
debt of gratitude. The oil I use now is not for cooking but
engine oil to polish locomotives. I have spent more than
half my life on trains—I have spent more time on trains than
at home. A co-worker I met during the express-train era
married me in front of a locomotive on the 101st Railway
Day. That locomotive is still carefully preserved today. Our
children have grown up, and I retired after 35 years working
the dining car. Now I work at the Kyushu Railway History
Museum, maintaining the rolling stock preserved there and
preserving mini railways and model trains. There is no going back to the past, but I remember my times working on dining
cars each time I look at our beautiful rolling stock preserved for posterity.
|
Photo: Dining car crew of Kirishima limited express at Yasu yard in 1972 (Author)
Photo: Steam locomotive C61 Hayabusa and ED73 Asakaze (right), 1965 (Author)
Photo: Fuda-no-tsuji departure lines in the Shinagawa yard in Tokyo (Author) |